Eat Smart Culinary Tour to Turkey

Culinary Tour to Turkey - May 4 to May 14, 2019 - Tour Full

“Embark on a Tasting Adventure”
with Co-Leaders Joan Peterson and Susan Chwae

Eat Smart in Turkey
Embark on a Culinary Adventure of a Lifetime with Joan Peterson, Author of Eat Smart in Turkey

Come with us on a culinary odyssey through ancient, Ottoman, and modern Turkey, and get to the heart of the culture through an exploration of its scrumptious cuisine and wine. Sample the infinite variety of regional Turkish specialties in their natural setting. Delve into the secrets of Turkish dishes by participating in a cooking class. Visit bustling markets to learn about the herbs, spices and condiments prevalent in Turkish cookery. You’ll come away with a knowledge of the culinary traditions of Turkey and a deep appreciation of the magnitude of history and culture that this ancient land possesses.

But it’s not all about food and wine. We’ll see the major tourist sights in Istanbul, in the Mediterranean, and in magical Cappadocia, where we can take a sunrise balloon ride and gently soar above its surreal lunar landscape before landing for a champagne toast. And, we’ll still have time to shop and relax along the way.

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This tour is full. Click here to inquire about the 2020 tour or to get on the waiting list.
Minimum 8 persons, Maximum 12 persons.
$3895 US - Per Person Double Occupancy; $550 US - Single Supplement

2019 ITINERARY

SATURDAY, May 4, 2019
Depart for Istanbul.

SUNDAY, May 5, 2019
Arrival at Istanbul Airport. Meet your guide and transfer to hotel.

Evening at leisure.

MONDAY, May 6, 2019
Morning drive along the coastline of the Sea of Marmara, following along the City Walls of Byzantium. The 5th-century walls built by Emperor Theodosius II stretch for 4 miles from Istanbul’s Golden Horn to the Sea of Marmara. They were breached only twice in 1600 years. The first breach occurred during the Fourth Crusade in 1204; the second in 1453 by the cannons and troops of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror. Several of the main gates were restored during the 1990s, but other parts of the walls are unrestored.

Continue along the Golden Horn and visit Süleymaniye Mosque, better known as the mosque of Suleyman the Magnificent. It was built in the 16th century by the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan for Sultan Suleyman the Magnificient, also known as the Legislator. The mosque, the largest in Istanbul, stands on a hilltop, the third of seven hills dominating the Golden Horn and contributing to the skyline of Istanbul. It was ordered by Sultan Suleyman, and built by Sinan in 7 years, between 1550–1557. Like all big and important mosques of that period, this one also was built as a complex including a hospital, library, medrese (religious school), kitchen, haman (bath), shops, and hospice for the poor. It is one of the best examples of Ottoman Islamic architecture in Istanbul.

Drive to Sultanahmet Square for a tea break at the Sultanhamet Medrese just next to the Sultanahmet Mosque.

After tea, visit the Topkapı Palace Museum. Topkapı Palace, the private residence and seat of government of the Ottoman sultans from 1465 to 1853, houses spectacular porcelain as well as jewel collections including the Spoonmaker Diamond (fifth largest in the world) and jeweled swords and armor of the Sultans. After entering a gate once lined with the severed heads of those who dared oppose the Sultan, we will wander through rooms of precious artworks and artifacts, visit the newly remodeled Kitchen, and explore the famous Harem, residence of the Sultan, his wives, concubines, and children.

Lunch at the famous Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta, the historic Sultanahmet “Meatballs” Restaurant run by the fourth generation of the Tezçakın family, with Chef Selim currently carrying on the family tradition. The restaurant was started by Mehmet Seracettin Tezçakın, who came to Istanbul from Turkmenistan in 1920 to seek his fortune. It became a classic restaurant and has been in business for 95 years.

After lunch visit the Grand Bazaar, a giant labyrinth, one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world. Its construction was begun around an old Byzantine building after the Conquest of Istanbul. The Bazaar initially consisted of just two warehouses—the Inner Bedesten and Sandal Bedesten--known as the old Bedesten (Old Bazaar) of today. Throughout subsequent centuries the Bazaar became much larger with the addition of many new sections and inns (han). Domed rooves covered the streets, and buildings were interconnected. Today it covers an area of approximately 37,000 square yards with about 4,000 shops, 17 inns, 61 streets, 2 mosques, several cafes and restaurants, and 22 gates. It is undaunting for the first-time visitor, but navigation is made somewhat easier since the streets are laid out more or less in a grid, and shops tend to be grouped according to the products sold.

Late afternoon drive to Golden Horn.

Continue to the Pierre Loti Coffee House located on a beautiful tree-covered hill. Enjoy the wonderful panorama of the Golden Horn. The coffee house is named for Pierre Loti, the French author and poet who was especially fond of Istanbul and wrote in the coffee house while enjoying the views.

Welcome Dinner at Akdeniz Hatay Sofrası. The restaurant specializes in food from the southeastern region of Turkey, as well as a wider selection of Mediterranean food. The ingredients used in the dishes travel from the cities of Hatay and Gaziantep to arrive at your plate in Istanbul: aromatic red pepper pastes, pistachios, chickpeas, olive oil, and pomegranate molasses.

After dinner return to hotel.

TUESDAY, May 7, 2019
Morning visit to the Rüstem Pasha Mosque and Spice Bazaar.

Rüstem Pasha Mosque is one of the city’s architectural gems. The interior is covered in some of the most exquisite Iznik tiles ever produced. The tiles have the famous red color that was difficult to produce at the time. Rüstem Pasha was the son-in-law and a grand vizier of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent (1520-1566). Shop in a nearby market to buy spoons and spatulas made of șimçir, a beautiful hard wood.

The Spice Bazaar, an extensive market, was built in the 17th century to finance the upkeep of the nearby mosque, Yeni Cami. The bazaar is often referred to as the “Egyptian Market” due to the fact that spices used to come to the market from India and Southeast Asia via Egypt. Despite the fact that the bazaar is becoming more touristy, there is still plenty to discover for the “foodie.”

Lunch and cooking class at the Chef’s Table cooking school with Chef Serkan Bozkurt. A food lover’s dream: gaining knowledge of Turkish cuisine on site, using authentic spices under the tutelage of an award-winning culinary expert!

Afternoon drive to the Old City and visit Hagia Sophia Museum. Hagia Sophia is the most magnificent of all Byzantine churches and is one of the world’s finest and largest architectural works of art. It was built by Anthemius of Tralles and Isodorus of Miletus between 532 and 537 under the rule of Emperor Justinian. When the Byzantine Empire collapsed under the attack of Mehmet the 2nd on May 29, 1453, Islam became the state religion. At noon that day, Mehmet the 2nd had the muezzins call the Muslims to prayer from Hagia Sophia, thus converting it into a mosque. It is now a museum where early Christian mosaics and Islamic calligraphy live side-by-side.

Return to Hotel. Dinner on your own.

WEDNESDAY, May 8, 2019
Drive to the Old City and visit the Underground Cistern, an underground network of waterways estimated to have been created originally in the 4th century and expanded in the 6th century. Stroll along raised walkways over the water to view hundreds of Corinthian columns and fish swimming in the waters.

Early brunch at the amazing Güllüoglü Baklava Factory in Karaköy. We will tour parts of the factory, including the area where the dough is rolled out, have a chance to help make the baklava, and later enjoy savory and sweet varieties of these treats, along with juice and Turkish coffee.

After brunch enjoy a private boat cruise on the Bosphorus.

After the cruise drive to New Istanbul Ataturk airport for domestic flight to İzmir.

Dinner will be served at the Izmir hotel.

THURSDAY, May 9, 2019
Breakfast at the hotel.

We board our minibus and cross through farmlands to the city of Bergama (ancient Pergamum), which is home to one of the most interesting archaeological sites in Turkey. Ancient Pergamum was an important cultural center and capital of the Pergamene Empire throughout Classical times. The last king of the Attalides, Attalos III, handed over the city to the Romans, who made a provincial capital of the city.

Passing through the bustling modern Turkish market town of Bergamam, our minibus will climb around the steep mountain to the acropolis of Pergamum. Here on foot, we will explore the ruins.

Lunch will be served at Sağlam Restaurant.

Structures of interest in the acropolis include the famous library, an enormous theater that looks over a deep valley, temples of Trajan, Dionysos, the altar of Zeus (whose massive ornaments are now displayed in the Pergamum Museum in Berlin), and a gymnasium built in three terraces. The tour then continues down the hill and across town to the Asklepeion, an early center for healing, which in Roman times was as important as Epidauros and Kos as a sanctuary and a spa.

Return to hotel and drive to dinner at Urlice vineyard.

Overnight at hotel.

FRIDAY, May 10, 2019
After the breakfast at the hotel, drive to Kuşadası. 1.5 hours later, we will arrive at Ephesus.

For ancient paganism as well as early Christianity, Ephesus was an important religious center, second only to Athens and later Jerusalem. The cult of Artemis gave way to Christianity as the Virgin Mary was reputed to have spent her final days nearby and St. Peter and St. Paul both preached here. Ephesus kept its important standing due to its well-placed port and its religious significance, which the locals were not above exploiting. After Emperor Augustus proclaimed Ephesus the capital of the Asian province in 27 BC, the city became one of the most important in the extended Roman empire. Most of the buildings you will see date from that era when Ephesus had nearly one quarter million inhabitants.

Begin at the Magnesia Gate, where our guide will take us on a leisurely downhill walk through marble streets of the city, pausing at sites along the walk to describe their significance. See the Gymnasium, Odeon, Fountain of Trajan, Temple of Hadrian, Upper Agora, Town Hall, Byzantine house, Roman baths, and surprisingly efficient public bathrooms.

One of the most imposing sites at Ephesus is the Library of Celsus. Built it 135 BC and finely decorated with columns and sculpture, it was erected by a son in homage to his father.

Another significant structure is a short walk away - the amphitheater. Known for its excellent acoustics, it was here that St. Paul preached to the Ephesians, explaining them to give up their worship of Artemis and embrace the Christian faith.

Lunch will be at Değirmen Restaurant and Park. We will be able to have lunch, visit the Olive Oil Museum and Ecologic Farm.

Late afternoon drive to Izmir Airport for domestic flight to Kayseri. A light dinner will be served at the airport.

Upon arrival at Kayseri transfer to Cappadocia and check in to our hotel.

SATURDAY, May 11, 2019
After breakfast at the hotel, we will begin our tour of Cappadocia.

The region known as Cappadocia obtained its current “lunar” landscape through violent eruptions of volcanoes millions of years ago and the sculpting of the wind over a long time. The color of the soil changes from beige, yellow, and reddish brown to pink and violet, depending on the season and time of the day.

Turks called the tower-like formations in the area “Fairy Chimneys.” Churches were carved within these formations by colonies of Christians, first established in the area by St. Paul. They painted religious frescoes on the walls and ceilings. To escape from invaders, the Christians also carved several labyrinthine cities underground, some as deep as 20 stories.

Lunch will be served at Millocal Restaurant.

Visit to Özkonak Underground City. Özkonak, once home to about 5,000 people, was carved 6 stories deep into the Anatolian plateau. The top 3 stories are open to visitors. Özkonak had sophisticated ventilation and a crude communication system between levels. Massive circular stones serving as doors were rolled across the passages and sealed from the inside when invaders approached.

Dinner at Ziggy Restaurant.

After dinner, visit Saruhan Caravanserai to see the Whirling Dervishes.

SUNDAY, May 12, 2019
Visit to Dervent Valley and Zelve: surreal open-air museums, and the natural Uçhisar Fortress, where early Christians found shelter from the 11th century onwards.

Dervent Valley is a lunar landscape with many strange rock formations and animal-shaped rocks. Zelve, a cave town, once was home to one of the largest communities in the region. It is honeycombed with religious and secular dwellings. Until 1924, Christians and Muslims lived together in the community. At this time there was an exchange of Greek and Turkish minorities, and the Christians had to leave Zelve. In the 1950s the Muslims were forced to evacuate these homes due to severe erosion, which made it dangerous to remain living in them. As a result, a modern village, Yeni Zelve (New Zelve), was built to house the people. Uçhisar Fortress is the highest point in Cappadocia. Hollowed out rooms in it were interconnected via tunnels and stairs. Access to these rooms was controlled by circular stone doors similar to those in the underground settlements.

Lunch at Lil’a.

Afternoon drive to continue our tour of Cappadocia with its unique and surreal landscape dominated by deep valleys and fairy chimneys. Visit various shops in the area along the way.

The rest of the day at leisure. Dinner on our own.

MONDAY, May 13, 2019
4:30 Wake up call!
Balloon Trip (optional)
Early morning transfer to meet the balloon crew. The gentle and stable wind conditions are ideal during the first few hours of the day in Cappadocia. It is also the ideal time for photography, with splendid colours and contrasts. Don’t forget to bring your camera! The deep canyons and gentle winds carry you over places that could never be reached except by balloon. After flying over Cappadocia for about an hour, you will land to an awaiting champagne toast!

Return to hotel for breakfast.

Visit to Avanos, a city set on the banks of the Kizilirmak (Red River), which gets its name from the clay that it deposits. This clay has provided Avanos with pottery for centuries and the town is still dominated by this industry despite the inroads that tourism has made in the area. The main street has numerous shops and workshops selling plain and decorated pots and plates and you can watch the potters at work using kick wheels, the design of which has remained unchanged for generations. Many of the workshops will encourage you to have a go yourself. It’s harder than it looks.

Lunch at Aravan House restaurant.

Afternoon visit of Göreme Open-Air Museum, the remains of a monastic community that made its home in this valley. There are many churches and chapels displaying frescos, and some have strange symbolic decorations. Recently an extensive protection program has been put into place because the churches are very prone to erosion. To prevent this they are slowly being covered with a resilient artificial surface designed to stop the gradual destruction by nature. The frescoes are divided up into pre- and post-Iconoclastic ones. The earlier works rely entirely on symbolism to communicate their messages. Their simple form is a result of the early church’s disapproval of portraying the human form in religious art. The works which postdate the resolution of the Iconoclastic controversy (mid 9th Century) are much more figurative. It is interesting to compare them and realize that both styles are telling the same stories of Christ and the Saints.

Farewell dinner.

TUESDAY, May 14, 2019
Early breakfast at hotel.

Early morning departure to Kayseri airport for domestic flight to Istanbul.

Joan Peterson received her Ph.D. in Cell Biology/Electron Microscopy from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. In 1993 she began a second career. She started a publishing company, Ginkgo Press, and created the EAT SMART series of guidebooks designed for travelers and cookbook lovers. To date she has written or co-written 11 of the 14 available culinary guidebooks (Brazil, Turkey, Indonesia, Mexico, Poland, Morocco, Sicily, India, Peru, Norway, and Portugal). She has traveled extensively for many years, and leads culinary tours to Turkey, India, Indonesia, Jordan, Morocco, Norway, Peru, Portugal, and Sicily.

Susan Chwae, Joan Peterson's daughter, has a degree in Graphic Arts from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. She is the Marketing Director and technical advisor for Ginkgo Press and the EAT SMART series. Since 1997 she has provided all creative and marketing support for the EAT SMART guidebooks and the website. She has been assisting Joan or leading her own Culinary Tours since 2005.

Highlights from a previous culinary tours to Turkey. Videos created by tour participant Barbara Jensen.